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Pike has always been the much sought-after bounty of fresh-water
fishermen. Unfortunately it is becoming increasingly uncommon as it eats
live prey, lives in fresh running water, grows very slowly and cannot be
farmed as it does not support captivity. If by unlucky chance it happens
to enter a tank, it will immediately try to kill itself by beating its
head against the border. This fish vaunts its liberty; it gives up only
after a fierce struggle to show its dignity as a prey. The permanent
present of pike on the menu of Mantuan restaurants can thus be interpreted
as a search to valorize tradition because this fish is becoming rarer;
supplied by the informal market channels of acquaintances between
fishermen and the restaurant circuit, in the context of environmental
balance, it symbolically demonstrates the link between capture and the
presentation of a meal.
Luccio in salsa is definitely a very old recipe; it is even mentioned in the
Stefani treatise: The pike must come from the river or from good lake water,
not murky; among all fishes, this is nutritious served with garlic,
lemon juice and vegetables; when cooked on the spit, larded with anchovies
and served with caper sauce, prawn tails, sugar and rose wine vinegar
(Brunetti, 1965:46).
And surely the fish from the lake and river at Mantua have always been a notably
available food, at no cost: the city is constructed as a fortress,
surrounded by waters; therefore freshwater fish have taken first place in
the kitchen and have become an important element in the cuisine of our
province. Contrary to meat, therefore, fish could be consumed almost daily
and often its transformation into food did not require very great
elaboration.
In the times of the Gonzagas, and even until recent times, there were no
deep-freezing methods. Meat and sea fish required a lot of care and profound
metamorphoses: sauces, spices, the marked taste of some fruits, overcame
(and cancelled) the taste of the prime element, probably no longer fresh.
Lake fish, on the other hand, thanks to its abundance, has continued to be
prepared respecting its sweet and clean taste.
For this recipe, too, there are evident internal differences linked with the
specific nature of the territory: in the area around Canneto, towards the
Cremona border, peppers are not used as an ingredient; at Le Grazie and at
Rivalta, on the banks of the Mincio, the pike, dressed with the usual
sauce, is sprinkled with slivers of Grana cheese. Pike and Grana return in
a recipe that some Mantuan families preserve even today, in which the
pike, previously simmered in water and lemon juice, is dressed with only
olive oil, grated Grana and a dusting of nutmeg, clearly recalling the
ancient recipes.
The restaurants we visited have partially modified the original traditional
recipe, following their creative spirit. Instead of the classic method of
simmering the fish, it can be steamed; in place of the hot sauce poured
directly onto the fish, it is dressed with fresh oil and covered with the
drained ingredients: to the original composition we can add tomato pieces
to make the dish fresh and pleasant; finally the overall flavour of the
recipe can be changed by adding the zest and juice of a lemon, giving a
sharp taste to the dish. One last recipe for pike is that named "all'aiona",
dressed with parsley and chopped garlic and fresh olive oil.
Luccio in salsa is the "second" course that mostly characterises Mantuan
gastronomic traditions: this is why most of the restaurants serve this dish all year
round, served hot or cold according to the seasons.
Luccio in salsa is usually accompanied by slices of grilled polenta: a strange
combination with freshwater fish, but which Mantuans cannot resist for
ancient habits.
Taken from "Di terra e di acqua" ed. Franco Angeli.
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