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Cheese
| Wine | Travel | Italian Food
Marches Food:
The local cuisine of the Marches region reserves a place of
honor for the Casciotta d’Urbino, a cheese that is eaten throughout the
day. Made according to a tradition that can be traced back to as early as the
16th century in the province of Pesaro-Urbino,
Casciotta
di Urbino has a pale yellow paste that is lightly perforated by
characteristic little holes. Made primarily from ewe’s and cow’s milk,
Casciotta should be eaten after a maturation process that lasts from 20 to
30 days. Mild and only slightly acidic, it is enjoyed simply with a slice of
ciauscolo, grilled polenta, or with sweet accompaniments such as jams
and pears.
The Marchigiani cherish every inch of the pig.
Ciauscolo, a type of spreadable pork, is traditional in this part
of Italy. This specialty is made form the belly and shoulder of the pig and
flavored with salt, pepper, fennel, garlic, and orange rind. Other pork
specialties include Carpegna Prosciutto, Soppressata da Fabriano, and Fegatino,
a liver sausage.
One of the region’s signature dishes,
Vincisgrassi is a special recipe that reflects the Marchigiani
attitude to life. Handmade with care, this festive dish is a type of lasagne layered with a sauce of
chicken giblets, mushrooms, veal brains and sweetbreads,
ham, bechamel, Parmigiano Reggiano and, in season,
truffles, preferably white. Legend has it that a chef made the dish centuries ago for an Austrian
prince who fought in the war against Napoleon in 1799.
Piceno gastronomy
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How should a self-respecting Ascolan lunch start? Tradition and rural memory suggest
without a doubt lamb giblets, served with eggs or with tomato and hot pepper,
chicken livers, but also cheese-flavored bread accompanied by the seasonal
salamis and cold cuts (de rigueur at Easter) and a plate of tender stuffed and
fried olives.
Egg noodles have an important presence among the first courses,
whether they are tagliatelle, fine cut spaghetti, maccheroncini di Campofilone,
or chitarrine from Abruzzo: but there's no discussion over the sauce: it must be
of chicken giblets. For the menu of Friday or di vigilia, spaghetti with tuna,
green olives and tomato sauce. As an alternative, the soups linked to the
mountain economies, with a cereal or legume base: spelt soup, or that of
lentils, or beans or egg noodles with chickpeas.
The second course, which is also the "symbol", is the fritto
misto all'ascolana: stuffed olives, naturally, then fried custard, zucchini,
artichokes and lamb ribs. Much appreciated is also grilled lamb, rabbit or
chicken and, for Good Friday's menu, stoccafisso or baccalà with herbs and
spices. To conclude the meal, the sober coke or ciambellotto is a popular
choice, with anisette flavored pastries, the cicerchiata, the rich and caloric
frustingo and fried sweet ravioli, filled with chestnuts or cream or even
ricotta. Piceno's wines from the beginning to the end: white Falerio of the
Colli Ascolani, but also the autochthonous vines Pecorino and Passerina, then
red Rosso Piceno and Rosso Piceno Superiore, and to conclude with a trip into
archaic memory, the vino cotto, conserved in barrels, and the completely
Mediterranean fascination of Anisetta and mistrà.
photos (c) Paolo Marini www.fotomarche.com
Marche food:
Entree Courses
Marche food: First Courses
Marche food: Main Courses
Marche food: Fish Courses
Marche food: Cheese Courses
Pesaro-Urbino
food and wines
Valmarecchia: “formaggio di fossa”
and mystery of bread
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(c) 1997-2008 E. Massetti
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