 The
cereals
Barley and ladybird - Photo (c)
ombre chimique
Cereal preference or dependence relatively neatly divided the
ancient Mediterranean world in half. In the east, the Greeks
cultivated and consumed barley, while wheat was the principal
grain of the Latin West.
Italians did not reject barley. They grew it and ate it in
various preparations as they still do, usually in soups. But it
was never a major or vital part of their diet. Rye was grown to
a certain extent in the Alps but it, too, was and is still today
a minor food resource. Millet and oats never acquired much of a
following in Italy but buckwheat (grano saraceno) is
popular in northern Italy and particularly Lombardy’s Valtellina.
Wheat in the form of bread and puls (boiled meal flavored
in innumerable ways) was the mainstay of the diet for centuries.
With the decline in hard physical labor in recent years, bread
has lost some of its essentiality but puls has become a
standard entry on restaurant menus not only in Italy but also in
countries worldwide. However, it changed its form in the 17th
century after the arrival of corn (maize) from the New World.
Corn replaced wheat and the result was polenta.
Various types of wheat evolved at an early date. Some are
specifically adapted to use in bread because of their
substantial content of gluten, which gives dough elasticity.
Hard wheat (durum) is more compact and the dough retains its
shape during cooking. It is the ideal grain for the production
of pastas. Farro or spelt wheat is a rare survivor of
ancient agriculture. Cultivated primarily in Tuscany’s
Garfagnana zone, it was only recently rediscovered. Today,
production barely keeps up with demand.
Italians have developed a wide range of breads over the
centuries and many ancient types are still produced–-in most
cases on a local or regional basis. Commercial bakers account
for most of the bread consumed in Italy today as they have since
professionals started turning out loaves in ancient Rome in the
2nd century BC. Baking is still practiced at home to a certain
extent, as at Genzano, a village near Rome. The selection
nationwide ranges from extremely large loaves, once intended to
keep a household supplied for a full week, to small rolls. Most
breads are leavened but many are not, like the Sardinian
carta da musica (thin as sheets of music paper) or
carasau.
Crackers are a relatively recent addition to the Italian roster
of breads and related products. However, the concept is
basically the same as that of the communion wafer. Grissini
or breadsticks are a specialty of Turin, although they are now
found virtually everywhere. Most are pencil-thin but in their
homeland bakers still shape them by hand so that they are thick
and irregular. Flat breads are extremely popular in central
Italy and include Tuscany’s rosemary-flavored schiacciata,
the Romagna’s piadina and Emilia’s crescentina and
gnocco. Some are fried and some are baked. Sweetened
breads are common but they belong to the dolce or confectionery
category.
Breadsticks
Coppia Ferrarese IGP
Crackers
Farro della Garfagnana IGP
Pane Casareccio di Genzano IGP
Pane di Altamura DOP
(c) 1997-2008 E. Massetti
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