Civita di Bagnoregio
Perched on
top of a hill among the valleys formed by Chiaro and Torbido streams, Civita
appears clinged to the edge of a cliff where it dominates the wide desolated
valley made up of calanchi. This isolation is the result of a
continuous erosion that makes the tufa rock becoming thinner and thinner on
an unstable layer of clay and sand altered by wind and rain.
But when the town
was founded by the Etruscans about 2.500 years ago, because of the different
geological configuration, it was not so hard to get to Civita. During the
Etruscan period, in fact, it was an important city for its position along an
ancient road connected to a dense network of trade routes. Many traces of this
population come from the necropolis found in the rock beneath the belvedere of
San Francesco Vecchio.
The cave of Saint
Bonaventure, too, is supposed to be an Etruscan chamber tomb transformed into a
chapel during the Middle Ages.Saint Bonaventure is one of
the most important figures of Civita,who,it is said, was miraculously cured from
a serious illness by St. Francis of Assisi.
From the few
available ancient documents, we know that Civita and Bagnoregio were parts of
the same city called Balneum Regis (the bath of the king). This name was given
by a Lombard king, Desiderious, as his wounds were cured by the salutary waters
of the hot springs present in the area.
 In 774, as the
Lombards were defeated by the Franks, the city passed under the Papal State. In
1140 Civita became a free Commune, after a long series of feudal dominations.
Among the feudal lords who ruled the town it is worthy to mention the
Monaldeschi who were also lords of Orvieto.
The relations
between Civita and Orvieto were not always peaceful for the many unsolved
matters of boundaries and they were the cause of frequent hostilities among the
inhabitants of the two towns. Furthermore, the Monaldeschi wanted to preserve
their control over Civita as a strategic place in the religious conflicts
against Viterbo. Actually,
this control soon became a real dominion till 1457 when the people rebelled,
destroying the Fortress of Cervara (belonging to the Monaldeschi). As a reminder
of this victory, the sculptures of two lions grasping human heads were put over
the gate of Santa Maria.
In 1695 the
beginning of Civita's decay was signed by a terrible earthquake which, causing
serious damages to the roads and buildings, compelled many inhabitants to leave
the city. The continuous sismic activities that followed in the course of the
centuries, brought a long series of landslides; for this reason, Civita almost
became completely desolated. Today, in fact, only a very small number of people
live there who are determined to keep this little fragment of rock alive.
Civita, like an island in our memory or a figment of our
imagination, is connected by a narrow walkway to reality and to the
surrounding countryside; it takes us far away, not so much in distance as in
time....
There is a feeling that one is leaving the real world, and this feeling
becomes stronger after entering the ancient city gate, standing guard over a
sheer drop between the remains of two houses with their windows open wide
over the emptiness.
 One almost has the impression that this gate opens into a supernatural
world, surviving in another dimension. The rock below
Civita is honeycombed with ancient cellars (for keeping wine at the same
temperature all year) and cisterns (for collecting rainwater, since there
was no well in town). Many date from Etruscan times.
Explore the streets, but remember — nothing is abandoned.
Everything is still privately owned. After passing an ancient Roman tombstone on
your left, you'll come to Antico Frantoio Bruschetteria, a
rustic place for bite to eat. Vittoria's sons, Sandro, and Felice, and her
grandsons Maurizio and Fabrizio (with his American wife, Heather) toast
delicious bruschetta (roughly 10:00–20:00 in summer, tel. 0761-948-429). Peruse
the menu, choose your topping (chopped tomato is super), and get a glass of wine
for a fun, affordable snack.
While waiting for your bruschetta, take a look around to see
Vittoria's mill (mulino), an atmospheric collection of old olive presses. The
huge olive press in the entry is about 1,500 years old. Until the 1960s,
blindfolded donkeys trudged in the circle here, crushing olives, and creating
paste that filled the circular filters and was put into a second press (if
you're not eating here, a €1 donation is requested).
Farther down the way and to your left, Maria shares her garden's grand views
(€1 donation) with a helping of historical misinformation (she says Civita and
Lubriano were once connected). Maria's husband, Peppone, used to carry goods on
a donkey back and forth 40 times a day on the path between the old town and
Bagnoregio. These two are the last of the native Civita residents (aged 82 and
90).
At Trattoria Antico Forno ("The
Antique Oven"), owner Franco serves up pasta at affordable prices (daily for
lunch 12:30-15:30 and sporadically for dinner 19:30-22:00, on main square,
also rents rooms, tel. 0761-760-016). Pina's Pizzeria cooks
up good pizza and homemade sweets to eat there or to go (daily 12:00-22:00,
near entry into town).
Short history of "Piciarello"
typical pasta of the nortern part of Lazio and of the southern part of Tuscany,
also called Umbrichello, Ciriola, Strozzaprete, Lumbrichello, Spaghettone,
according to the region or village you go to.
Its history dates back long time ago when the "spaghettoni" were made with some
flour and water and seasoned with browned fat, becoming the joy of the guests
during festivals.
It is also said that in the past, in order to get spiritual services, peasants
gave priests some flour and this, together with some water, was enough for their
housekeeper to make pasta (as eggs were too expensive).The name of "Strozzaprete"
(choke-priest) comes from this story.
Courtesy in part of
www.civitadibagnoregio.it
(c) 1997-2008 E. Massetti
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