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Genova Porto e Lanterna - Photo (c)
Hans Kremers
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Visit Genova in two days
Our tour begins down beside the busy harbor, in front of the great
square Palazzo San Giorgio, former seat of the famous Bank which
administered the economic wealth of the republic.
We are in the
picturesque Piazza Caricamento, with its ancient Sottoripa Arcades which
lead into the extremely narrow streets, or, carugi which run up towards
the city proper.
Continuing towards the Lanterna, the lighthouse towering before us, we
come to the Romanesque church of San Giovanni di Pre, with its Gothic
bell-tower, next to which stands the 12° century Loggia lei Commendatori
gerosolimitani. Taking the street next to the Principe Station, we reach
Palazzo Doria Pamphili (1529) with frescoes by Perin del Vaga; it was
here that the composer Verdi spent the last years of his life.
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Coming back into Piazza Principe, we make our way to the famous Via
Balbi, the entire length of which we shall visit. To the right is the
richly-decorated Royal Palace with its sumptuous interior and
magnificent garden: across the way, after the Church of San Carlo,
stands the Palazzo dell'Universita (handsome arcaded courtyard; inside,
six statues by Giant Bologna).
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Carrying on, we find on our right the Palazzo Durazzo Pailavicini (17°
century) with an imposing entrance hall (inside, a fine private
collection of Van Dyck portraits); facing it is the Palazzo Balbi
Senarega (containing another private collection, with works by
Caravaggio, Titian, etc.).
Next door to the Palazzo Durazzo Pallavicini is the remarkable church of
SS. Annunziata, with its grandiose interior, the most imposing in
Liguria. A few steps further on and we can climb up to S. Maria del
Carmine (15° century) with its handsome doorway.
Coming back down, by way of Via Vallechiara, Piazza Zecca and Via
Cairoli, we turn into what is really a continuation of Via Balbi: Via
Garibaldi with a majestic sequence of imposing palaces. At the beginning
of the street, facing each other, are the Palazzo Bianco and the Palazzo
Rosso, which house the two most important collections of paintings in
the city.
We will end the morning with a visit to the former, which contains works
by Ligurian painters, the most important being Luca Cambiaso, Strozzi
and Magnasco; but there are also an altarpiece by Filippino Lippi
(1503), a portrait by Ponlormo and an outstanding group of Flemish
paintings (among them, the magnificent Triptych by G. David).
After, lunch, we shall visit the Palazzo Rosso gallery, which contains,
not only a magnificent collection of Van Dycks, but also works by
Veronese, Domenichino, Borer, Ribera, and Strozzi.
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Carruggio - Photo (c)
eilart
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Genova Brignole - Photo (c)
zena011
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After Palazzo Bianco
comes Palazzo Doria Tursi (or Municipale), one of the most impressive in
Genoa (1564) and then an absolute series of 16° century palaces: to the
right, those of the Serra, Adorno, Doria, Caudal and Garnbaro; and to
the lelt, those of the Podesta, Spinola, Parodi and Cambiaso.
By way of Piazza Fontana Marose and the lively Piazza Corvette, we get
to Via Roma and Piazza De Ferrari, the hub of present-day city life.
The narrow and picturesque Salita di S. Matteo takes us to the small,
but wonderful black and white striped Church of San Matteo; all around
are the medieval Mouses of the Dorias.
We then come down into the square
fronting the 16° century Palazzo Reale, residence of the Genoese Doges
which still preserves its 13° century appearance on one side.
A few
steps more and we are at the Cathedral of San Lorenzo, with its
marvelous Gothic facade and its 13° century doorways. The interior, with
its impressive aisled nave, houses works of sculpture and painting, as
well as an important Treasury. Particularly outstanding is the 13°
century Chapel of S. Giovanni Battista.
And here we shall end our first
days tour of Genoa.
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Starting the next day from San Lorenzo, we visit the 16° century Loggia
lei Bianchi, center of the business quarter of Genoa, and then proceed
to the church of Nostra Signora delle vigne, with its Romanesque
bell-tower and cloister. Back to Piazza San Lorenzo and down by way of
Via Chiabrera and Piazza degli Embriaci, with its battlemented tower, we
conic upon Santa Maria Assunta di Castello, a magnificent 11° century
church set into the side of the hill.
From here, we go to Sant'Agostino
with its unusual triangular cloister (inside the church the Ligurian
Museum of Architecture and Sculpture). By descending the stradone of
Sant'Agostino, we reach the small Romanesque church of San Donato with
its magnificent polygonal bell-tower; and, inside, a masterpiece of
Flemish painting: the triptych of the Adoration of the Magi by Joos Van
Cleve.
Returning to Sant'Agostino, we continue to the stately Basilica
of Santa Maria di Carignano (1552-1700) and then, down Via Fieschi, we
come to Porta Sant'Andrea, a lofty Gothic construction with battlemented
towers, next to which the fragile Cloister of Sant'Andrea has been
re-assembled; also nearby is the House of Christopher Columbus.
Continuing our descent and crossing Via Venti Settembre, we go down
another stairway and come to the ancient church of Santo Stefano, very
picturesquely situated.
Climbing once more brings us to the 16° century
church of SS. Annunziata di Portoria better known as Santa Caterina:(it
contains a glass coffin with the body of this Saint) with its handsome
interior inthe form of nave and two aisles.
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Via del Campo - Photo (c)
pavillon sully
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Porto Antico - Photo (c)
M**
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The afternoon may be devoted to a boat trip around the harbor, or an
excursion in the hills, to visit the ancient walls and the massive
fortresses which once protected the city.
Itinerary courtesy of
ENIT
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(c) 1997-2008 E. Massetti
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