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Lombardy
Como to Bellagio, a boat trip


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Cernobio

Como deserves a visit

Departing from the shore of Piazza Cavour in Como, chief town of the province and center of commerce and industry (especially in the sectors of textiles and silk), the boat sails longitudinally along the entire basin for approximately four hours.

Cernobbio

The boat lands at Cernobbio, an important center for tourism situated at the foot of Monte Bisbino. At 1325 meters, the summit of the mountain offers a magnificent panorama of the Lake. Above all, this small town is celebrated for the grandiose Villa D'Este (15565-70), the residence of Cardinal Tolomeo Gallio designed by Pellegrino Tibaldi. Situated on the lake with a splendid view, the villa has a spacious Italian-style garden with a famous perspective boulevard- which rises to the top of hills- lined with cypress trees and intervals of water games making it one of the Italy's most beautiful Renaissance roads.

At the beginning of the 19th century, when the complex was reopened after centuries of abandon, a tract of craggy mount was added. Planned in the English style, the path was made up of rocks, brushwood, waterways and lanes. In 1814 the villa was the residence of Caroline of Brunswich, the wife of George IV of England, who dedicated the villa to her family, descendents of Guelfo D'Este. In 1873, after a great turn over of ownership, Villa D'Este became a luxury hotel.

Torno

After a brief crossing of a few minutes, you arrive in Torno, a locality at the foot of Monte Piatto on the eastern shore. Celebrated for its productions of textiles and tapestries, the structure and the buildings of the town still preserve the characteristic of a mediaeval village.

The two principal nuclei of this structure are the 15th century parish of Santa Tecla (which faces a small port) with its portals and Ghotic rose-windows. And the 14th century church of San Giovanni with its Romanesque bell towers.

From here there is a path (circa 1.5 kilometers) which leads to one of the oldest villas on the Lake, Villa Pliniana with its open-front gallery and surrounding vegetation. It reflects solitarily and evocatively against the water.

The Villa was constructed in 1573 by the Governor of Como, Count Giovanni Anguissola.

Torno Lake Como
Hotel Villa Flora - Torno

Its name derived from the Fonte Pliniana, whose waters flow intermittently and were of great interest to both Pliny the Elder and Pliny the Younger. Villa Plinio was a destination for travelers and illustrious personalities: Stendhal, Foscolo, Rossini, Berchet, Byron, Shelley and Fogazzaro whose novel "Malombra"- despite the fact that events took place on Lake Segrino- was inspired by the story here of Prince Belgioioso and the Duchess Paisance.

Moltrasio

Crossing the lake once again, the boat sets shore at Moltrasio. This tourist center is named after the Grey-blue stone used frequently in traditional constructions in the Como region. Moltrasio has its fare share of villas and parks, many of which may be found on the west shore. Among these are Felice Soave's 18th Century Villa Passalacqua with its evocative Italian-style terrace garden. Nearby stands Saint Agata, the Romanesque 11th century church located in the park of Villa Salterio.

Pognana

The next two destinations are on the same eastern shore. First stop is Faggetto which is situated in the midst of forests and beech-wood trees on the slopes of Mount Palanzone. The hamlets of Molina (at 467 meters), Lema (at 533 meters) and Palanzo (at 596 meters) are connected to the lake by way of stepped paths. Then Pognana, with the Romanesque church San Rocco, modest stone buildings and prestigious 7th and 8th century structures. On the opposite shore is Torriggia Laglio (there is no place to anchor) which is comprised of two centers. Above Lagio is the famous "Buco dell'Orso" (Bear hole) where the fossils of the Ursus spelaeus were found. Both the Municipality and the Como Civic Museum house these fossils. Torriggia is situated on the narrowest point of the lake at 650 meters.

Careno Lake Como

Careno

The following stop is Careno, a small village accessible only on foot with typical stone houses and two churches: the Romanesque San Martino and the 7th century Parish "dell'Assunta". Just ahead on the same shore is Nesso.

A center formed by an agglomerate of dwellings, it is well-known for its "orrido"; the rocky gorge into which the waters from the Nos'e Valley, descending from the Tivano plane, flow into a waterfall.

This vision is made all the more evocative by a Roman bridge which crosses the ravine. In Nesso, characteristic houses line the stepped paths which descends to the lake and re-ascend to the ruins of the castle destroyed by Francesco II Sforza in 1531.

Thanks to a scenic path which begins in Nesso, it is possible to reach the spacious valley of the Tivano plane and the Monte San Primo (at 1685 meters). Towards Argegno, the boat passes over the deepest part of the lake which descend to 414 meters. Here during the Fifties, professor Auguste Piccard tested his bathyscaphs.

Argegno

Passing a rather wild stretch of coast, the boat docks at the inlet of Argegno. Given its favorable positioning at the outlet of Intelvi Valley, where the Mount Singhignola and the famous Belvedere di Lanzo d'Intelvi offer two splendid panoramas, this town is a prominent tourist resort. Lanzo is particularly well equipped with tourist services, hotels and sports. Its dozens of villas were an expression of this great resort up until the end of last century.

Comancina Island

From Argegno the boat continues along the western shore, territory of the ancient parish of Comancina Island. Beyond the lake, the shore offers more unusual types of settlements: Cavagnola with its tip, Carvagnana, Sormazzana, Bagnana and Rozzo. After a stop at Colonno, with its Romanesque San Michele overlooking the lake, and a stop at Sala, with its 18th century Villa Beccaria (restructured in the 19th century), you arrive at Comacina Island, the lake's only island.

A fortified point for the control of the lake, Comacina island was under the rule of the Romans and the Byzantines. In 1169 it was devastated by the Comaschi (allies of Barbarossa) because it was allied with Milan during the battle which involved all Larian localities.

Comacina Island Lake Como

Donated to the Italian State by the King of Belgium in the beginning of the century, the island is now run by an organization. Rich in both pre-historic and historic remains, the island is full of the ruins of numerous sacred structures from the various eras, the baroque Oratorio di San Giovanni is the only edifice to remain intact: www.comacina.it/isola/isle.htm

At the top of Mount Ossuccio (419 meters) is the 6th century "Santuario della Madonna del Soccorso" with its 8th century bell-tower and panoramic view of the Lake. The Sanctuary may be reached by way of a processionary path made up of a boulevard paved with cobblestone steps and lined by 14 chapels (1635-1714) dedicated to the Mysteries of the Rosary.

The chapels contain groups of polychromatic terracotta statues most of which were made by Francesco and Agostino Silva, which on a smaller scale are reminiscent of the Sacred Mount of Varese. From Lezzeno, the first stop after Comacina Island, the view the other shore embracing the Lavedo peninsula which stretches out into the lake with the vast complex of Villa Arconati Visconti or Balbianello (named after the promontory).

The structure is comprised of several sectors: two residential buildings which were the original 6th century nucleus and may have been designed by Tibaldi for Cardinal Tolomeo Gallio. These were eventually expanded in the 8th century by Cardinal Duni who erected the Villa Balbianello at the extreme tip of the peninsula. There is also a church, a small, picturesque wet-dock and a large park which is one of the most beautiful in the area.

Tremezzo Lake Como

Tremezzo

Just beyond the peninsula, beginning with Lenno (which has two interesting 11th century Romanesque structures: the church of Santo Stefano and the octagonal baptistry), is the start of the "Tremezzina" Riviera or "Riviera delle Azalee" which ends slightly after Cadenabbia.

The Riviera, with a magnificent view of the central basin of the lake, is studded with villas and hotels surrounded by verdant parks and gardens. At the end of the Riviera is Tremezzo.

This important tourist resort is favored by its particularly mild climate and by the landscape quality with its characteristic arcade appearance along the shore. In a scenic spot at the end of the town is the Villa Carla, one of the most and well frequented locations in the Larian area. Positioned at the summit of a stepped terrace garden, it was constructed between the end of the 7th century and the first half of the 8th century for nobleman Giorgio Clerici. In 1801 it was purchased by Giovanni Sommariva who enriched it with art (from Canova to Thorvaldsen, from Appiani to Hayez) and expanded its Italian garden with a splendid English park filled with azaleas and rhododendrons. Today the villa is state property and since 1929 it has been the management of the "Ente Autonomo Villa Carlotta" who maintained it and schedule visits.

Bellagio

Then the boat lands at Bellagio, at the top of the "Larian triangle", on the promontory that divides the Como branch from that of Lecco.

Bellagio is so beautiful that it deserves a page on its own...

The North part of Lake Como by boat

From Bellagio you can proceed with this itinerary to visit by boat the North part of lake Como, reaching Colico. In alternative you can cross with Ferry to Varenna as indicated below.

Returning via Varenna

From Bellagio you can take the ferry that takes you to Varenna. The ferry runs every 30-50 minutes until 10PM.

From Bellagio the boat crosses the Lake in about 15 minutes to land on the eastern bank, at Varenna, terminus with Cadenabbia of the ferryboat service for vehicles, situated on a promontory at the mouth of the Esino stream.

From Varenna you can take the Trenitalia train to go back to Lecco and then to Milan.

More on Varenna... >>>

Text in part courtesy of www.navigazionelaghi.it



(c) 1997-2008 E. Massetti
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