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One day trip to Isola Comacina on Lake Como
From Milan you don't need a car to take this day trip to the
wonders of a secluded island on Lake Como. Isola Comacina: you just hop on a train of the "LeNord" private train company,
and in a short time you are in a magic place of lakes, mountains, good food on
an open terrace facing the lake and ancient medieval history.
The "LeNord" trains depart right in the center of Milan, at
the Cadorna station, the ones you are interested in, the "diretti" (direct)
to Como stop also at the Bovisa-Politecnico station in Milan, and in the
small town of Saronno before reaching Como, a nice town on Lake Como.
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The recommended trains you can use for this
trip depart from Cadorna at 8:42 and 9:42 AM (8:50 and 9:50 at Bovisa, 9:04
and 10:04 at Saronno and arrive on 9:44 and 10:44 in Como Lago). Check the
LeNord site for up-to-date scheduling information or if you want to
leave at different times.
Once in Como you have some time to visit the town of Como,
before you walk few steps from the train station to
the boat landing station, and at 10:30 or 12:00 you board the boat to
Isola Comacina.
For your trip back you go the same itinerary backwards
leaving Isola Comacina 4:28 PM, (until May 26th, 5:27 PM between May 27 and
October 1st) and arriving in Milan at the
Cadorna station at 7:19, 7:49 (on holidays) or 8:19 PM.
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Isola Comacina
It's the only island of Como Lake, but even though its dimensions are really
small, it has a very big past. People of Como during the Middle Age found
hideout there in many occasions.
The island is completely covered by thick flore and over there there it's possible to see the ruins of S. Giovanni's
church.
Do not miss at the end of August the fireworks and the island fire.
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Visiting the Island: a charming experience
Setting foot on Comacina Island, the unique island of Lake of Como, is
always a stirring experience in all seasons, even in the mists of autumn or
under the rain. The scenery is bewitching at every time of the year. In the
midst of an ancient setting on the shores of Spurano, among the picturesque
fishermen's houses, the small Romanesque style church of S. Giacomo stands
out and, a few steps away, next to the bell tower, you will find Santa Maria
Maddalena.
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The place is rich in history, art, tradition and memories whose
architectures and remains defy the passing of time.
There is so much to discover among the secluded corners and the open views;
an aura of mystery lingers on the history of the Island, its inhabitants,
the churches and the buildings which were once there in great numbers and,
destroyed by the soldiers of Como army, are now buried between woods and
clearings.
Once landed, you will receive a warm welcome by the "Oste" ( an old
fashioned word for "owner of a pub", this is the way Benvenuto Puricelli,
the current owner, likes to call himself). After a tour of the Island, which
will take no more than one hour, stop over at the bar "La Botte" for a cool
drink before getting back to the Locanda where you will enjoy the pleasure
of sharing a rich meal while being waited on in a faultless way by the
careful staff.
Comments from an American tourist:
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"...the fun was still brewing as the owner of the
restaurant put out the lights and embarked on what is surely a classic
performance after forty years and quite a crowd pleaser -- casting out the
curses of the evil Barbarrossa (who once plundered the island) and invoking
the spirits of more gentle protectors.
We couldn't understand a word of the Italian he droned in the style of
ancient chant while he whirled, gestured broadly and lit the coffee brandy
on fire in a thrilling display of happy pyrotechnics while the other guests
(who could understand) laughed and sighed and whooped and cheered him on.
The language was universal, the theatrics self-explanatory. This was a
restaurateur who has discovered a formula for keeping 'em coming by keeping
'em happy. After forty years, why mess with success? There's little chance
this man will be left lonely on that little island..."
A history which goes back for centuries.
Comacina Island became important for strategic and religious reasons at the
time of the barbarian invasions, starting with the war between Greeks and
Goths. In 539, troops of Burgundiands and Alemannics ventured as far as
Northern Italy. In 569, the ruthless Uraja conquered Milan; the wealthiest
inhabitants of Como and the nearby villages gathered their riches and took
refuge on the Island where they resisted against the barbaric enemies, as
the last bulwark of Christian world to defend liberty. In a short while the
small surface of the Island was covered with houses, churches and
fortifications. That was the time the Island was known as Cristopoli (City
of Christ).
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During Middle Ages both the Island, known as Isola Comense or Cumana, and
the nearby mainland achieved a great economical and political importance
with the help of the bishop of Como. In 1118 a 10-year war between Como and
Milan broke out; the Island formed an alliance with Milan, which defeated
the enemy in 1127.
Como later rose again under Barbarossa's protection and in 1169 soldiers
from Como, with the help of the three parishes of Dongo, Gravedona and
Sorico, invaded the Island bringing death and ruin. In a decree of 1175
Barbarossa declared that no houses, churches or fortresses were ever to be
built on the Island.
Since then, nobody has lived there because of the curse Bishop Vidulf cast
on it: "No longer shall bells ring, no stone shall be put on stone, nobody
shall be host, under pain of unnatural death."
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The Island was given by the bishop to the Vacana family. In 1914, after the
events which occurred in Belgium at the beginning of World War I, the owner,
Augusto Giuseppe Caprani, decided to bequeath the island to His Majesty
Albert I King of Belgium as a token of solidarity. In May 1920 the King of
Belgium donated the Island to the Italian State to make it a retreat for
Belgian and Italian artists. It was then put under the supervision of Brera
Academy.
Cottages were built to accommodate artists and scholars and the Island
became a cultural pole in Como area.
More info on the Island... >>>
Other day trips from Milan without a car:
Bergamo Alta
Borromee Islands on Lake Maggiore
Mottarone on Lake Maggiore
Villa Taranto on Lake Maggiore
Lecco and Bellagio by boat
Como and Bellagio by boat
(c) 1997-2008 E. Massetti
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