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Mantova - The historic Center
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Not far beyond stands the Castello di San Giorgio,
built by Francesco Gonzaga, around the end of the 14th
century in order to extend the palace and defend it with a strong bulwark.
The building is an imposing fortress built in brickwork on a square plan,
with four massive towers at the corners and a moat all around.
Returning to the piazza, opposite the Ducal Palace stands the Bishop’s
Palace and several adjoining historic family mansions: the Uberti
Palace, the Castiglioni Palace and the Acerbi Palace.
The Bishop’s Palace was built between 1776 and 1786 and belonged to the Marchesi Bianchi family who lived in it until 1823 when it was turned into the bishop’s seat. On the façade, two impressive telamons at the sides of the entrance support a marble balcony.
At the corner with vicolo Bonacolsi, stands the late gothic Uberti Palace, built by a Mantuan branch of the Florentine family from which it takes its name. Traces of the original 13th century structures are still visible, partly walled up during later reconstructions, especially the windows facing vicolo Bonacolsi.
Next is Castiglioni Palace, otherwise known as Bonacolsi Palace, as it was believed to be the home of the Bonacolsi family, built by Pinamonte in 1281; it was more likely built by Luigi Gonzaga after he took over the town, in around 1340. Since 1808 it has been property of the Castiglione family, descendants of the famous Baldassare, author of Il Cortegiano (The Book of the Courtier). The vast façade in brickwork is crowned by Ghibelline merlons; on the upper floor are three-mullioned windows in terracotta and white marble. On the lower floor is a series of single lancet windows, nowadays almost all bricked-in. On the ground floor to the far left side, the original entrance, topped by a pointed arch, bears the Bonacolsi family coat of arms. The present entrance door and the balcony are 18th century additions. The tower facing vicolo Bonacolsi is also part of this complex.
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Next to the Castiglioni Palace, stands the Acerbi Palace, one of the Bonacolsi family mansions, with the adjoining Tower of the Cage, the tallest tower in town. It gained this name in 1576 when Guglielmo Gonzaga had an iron cage placed on it which was used to imprison criminals.
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A few meters from the Cathedral, along via Cairoli, stands the
Seminary. Its neo-classical façade was built in 1825 from
designs by Giovan Battista Vergani.
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Walking along via Cairoli, one reaches Piazza Virgiliana.
The piazza was once an inlet of the Lago di Mezzo (Middle Lake),
filled in between the mid 18th and the beginning of the 19th
century. The square was created from a project by Paolo Pozzo and
dedicated to Virgil. The Neo-classical look still remains in a few
of the buildings around it although it was radically altered when it became
a park during the Thirties. The Virgil monument was inaugurated in 1927: it
was designed by architect Luca Beltrami, the bronze statue of
Virgil is by Emilio Quadrelli, while the marble sculptures at the
sides are by Giuseppe Mengozzi.
From via Cairoli, going left, is the Diocesan Museum of Sacred Art "Francesco Gonzaga", where precious works of art dating back to the time of the Gonzaga family are on display; not to be missed are the suits of armor, once housed at the Sanctuary of Santa Maria delle Grazie, made by the famous Missaglia armorists.
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The itinerary continues to Piazza Broletto, walking past
the Voltone di San Pietro, the archway of the old town
gate.
Once past it, the Renaissance porticos begin, supported by columns with capitals of different periods and coming from different places. At this point, one reaches Piazza Broletto, created at the end of the 12th century when the town was extended beyond the first set of walls.
The square is dominated by buildings dating back to the time of the Commune, such as the Palazzo del Podestà. It was built in 1227, as an inscription on the façade explains, as seat of the town government, which was ruled by the Podestà. The building was partially destroyed by several fires and was later rebuilt, with many alterations. The internal courtyard, reached by walking through the Sottoportico dei Lattonai has a charming late Gothic staircase that leads to the upper floor.
On the façade facing piazza Broletto the Edicola di Virgilio can be seen; according to tradition the statue set in the niche represents the poet Virgil seated on an academic’s chair and dressed as a medieval doctor with the typical cap.
To the left stands the vast round arch of the Arengario, built around 1300 to connect the Palazzo del Podestà to the Masseria, where once all financial transactions took place. Above the arch are two elegant three-mullioned windows and a loggetta. From there the rulings of the Commune magistrates were announced to the people. Under the vast arch, four iron rings are still visible which served to hang the ropes used for those condemned to receive "squassi di corda" (the torture of being shaken on ropes).
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Continuing along the porticos one reaches Piazza Erbe,
so-called because it is here that the vegetable and fruit market takes
place. It is dominated by the Palazzo della Ragione and the
adjoining Clock Tower. The tower was built in 1472 from a
design by Luca Fancelli; in 1573 the astrological and astronomical
clock created by Bartolomeo Manfredi was added to the tower; in the
niche under the clock, there is a statue of the Immaculate Conception
dated 1639.
Next to the tower rises the Rotonda di San Lorenzo, the oldest church in town.
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Behind the Rotonda, is Piazza Concordia. To
the left, in via Spagnoli, is the Chamber of Commerce, an
interesting building in Liberty style designed by the Mantuan architect
Aldo Andreani at the beginning of the 20th century.
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Returning to Piazza Erbe, to the right on the south side, one can see the
Casa di Boniforte (so-called House of the Merchant),
as it was built in 1455 by a wealthy merchant - Giovanni Boniforte da
Concorezzo; the building has an exceptional façade with an interesting
mix of various ornamental motifs; the small portico is supported by
Corinthian columns. Adjoining the house is the Torre del Salaro,
built in the 13th century and later used as a deposit for salt.
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Adjacent to Piazza Erbe is Piazza Mantegna,
dominated by the solemn façade of the Basilica di
Sant'Andrea. It is the largest church in town, worthy of a visit as
it houses important works of art.
Courtesy in part of Comune di Mantova Turist Office
(c) 1997-2008 E. Massetti
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