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January
One of the most widely celebrated Sardinian holidays
is St. Anthony's Day, on January 16 and 17. Ancient tradition has it that
the saint, like Prometheus, stole into hell and brought back fire, so
naturally the festivities revolve around a bonfire. Each town places
different herbs and fruits atop the blaze, creating a unique aroma. Women
emerge from their homes bearing sweets and dark fruity loaves of pane
nigheddu, while men pass around bottles of wine and aquavit. Perhaps
the most spectacular celebration is in Mamoiada, where 12
frightening masks called mamuthones represent the months of the
year.
March
As in the rest of Italy, the Monday after Easter is
more important than our Good Friday. The people of Castelsardo
celebrate with a procession that begins at dawn. All day long the men parade
through town, their faces hidden beneath white monks' hoods, while choirs
sing chants as ancient as Christianity itself. At sunset the darkening sky
is suddenly brightened by hundreds of torches held aloft by the local women,
and then everyone retires to enjoy a meal whose menu has been unchanged for
centuries.
April
On Easter morning, be at the church of San Francesco
in Oliena to watch two very distinct processions, one carrying a
statue of Christ and the other carrying the Virgin Mary (left). The two long
lines of solemn costumed men thread their way through town on separate
routes, while residents line the streets to cheer or hang out of windows to
shoot blanks high into the air. Afterwards, everyone wolfs down plenty of
sevādas, washed down with the local wine, il Nepente.
May
In Cagliari, the first of May is dedicated
to St. Efis. If you can only witness one Sardinian festival this might be
the one to choose, because hundreds of celebrants come from all over the
island wearing their local costumes, walking, on horseback, in carts and
carriages, to fulfill a vow made to the saint three centuries ago. Not
surprisingly, the boisterous parade ends with a gigantic banquet, where a
highlight is Cagliari's renowned seafood.
May 1 to 4 Sassari 213 km. northeast of Cagliari. CAVALCATA SARDA (Sardinian Cavalcade) Next to last Sunday in May Traditional procession of more than 3,000 people in Sardinian costumes. Ascension Day. Cavalcade of Sardegna sees thousands in traditional costumes from all communes of the island taking part in the festivity. It publicizes Sardegna's customs. Culminates in songs and dances until early hours (May). June
Carloforte, located on tiny San Pietro
island, was originally settled by North Africans who came by way of Liguria,
with the result that its foods, customs, costumes, even its dialect are
unique. So is its local festival, dedicated to St. Peter: in the morning the
local men, a majority of whom are fishermen, sail out to sea and perform la
mattanza, a macabre "tuna round-up" practiced by many Sicilians.
Afterwards, the streets and squares of town come alive with music and
dancing late into the night, and appetites are satisfied by more tuna
specialties than you ever imagined could exist.
July
How many places are left in the world where men risk
their lives each year to commemorate Emperor Constantine's victory over
Maxentius in 312 AD? Sedilo is one of them. Here, for three days
straight, the famed local horsemen participate in a wild race around the
Sanctuary of "Santu Antine." There is no prize for the winner, only the
satisfaction of being best at something most sedilesi dream of from
the time they are old enough to dream. At sundown everyone gathers to taste
the tender roasts that have been rotating all day on hundreds of spits.
August
If you're in Sassari in August, you may be
awakened from your afternoon nap by tambourines and piccolos, heralding the
procession with which, for four centuries, the sassaresi have
thanked the Madonna for saving them from a deadly plague. At the head of the
parade are nine 30-foot candelabra, bedecked with flowers, ribbons, banners
and bows, all of which are pulled off at sunset in front of the S. Maria di
Betlem church. The food of the day is snails, mountains of them served to
one and all at Porta S. Antonio. By the way, in Sassari the most prized
snails, the big ones, are smothered in ashes and slow-roasted in their
shells.
Nuoro SAGRA del REDENTORE (Feast of the Redeemer) August 27 to 30 Colorful procession in Sardinian costumes September
Cabras is the most exciting town in Sardinia
on the first Sunday of September, when local youths run the "Race of the
Saracens," an ageold re-enactment. Seems that centuries ago a few heroes
managed to save a venerated statue of Christ from defilement by invading
North Africans. Today, you'll see 800 men wearing short white tunics run
barefoot for 6 miles, ending up on a carpet of flowers strewn by their
adoring fans before the paleo-Christian church of San Salvatore.
October
Deep in the mysterious heart of the island, the town
of Aritzo is surrounded by lush chestnut groves. According to local
legend, these generous forests were created in an instant by Saint Efisio,
who then charged the locals with educating the rest of us about their
wonderful fruits. During the last week in October, the whole town bakes and
roasts them into every possible form and offers them to anyone who comes to
their celebration.
November
November 1 is the day of the Dead, and in Nuoro
many families still prepare a feast with places set at the table for their
dearly departed. The custom is to cook far more than the family can eat,
then to share the meal with less fortunate neighbors. And everyone takes
time out to participate in the holy procession to the Madonna delle Grazie
sanctuary, where choirs from surrounding villages sing hymns and local
politicians offer candlesticks to the bishop.
December
Santa Lucia is a beloved local saint, and her
festival is celebrated in many towns. The town of Nurachi Tempio
invites everyone to share in their feast.
List of festivals courtesy of www.hostetler.net
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