Where the name of Italy was born Part 1: From Pesaro to Roccaraso

Anversa degli Abruzzi
Anversa degli Abruzzi – Photo © neve.abruzzoturismo.it

The Marches and the Abruzzi are a part of Italy, not very well known to the international tourist. It is not just a question of doing justice to these areas by recommending them to the tourist; the tourist himself will make some fascinating discoveries because these areas are no less rich in art treasures and natural beauties than others much more famous.

There are mighty Roman ruins, beautiful churches, and abbeys, Renaissance palaces, picture galleries rich, particularly in works of the Venetian School (to know the rare works of Crivelli or Lotto, one must visit the galleries of the Marches).

Then there is the majestic mountain scenery of the Maiella and the Gran Sasso, and the long golden sands of the Adriatic beaches.

There is yet another reason for visiting these parts. Everyone knows of the exploits of the other peoples of Italy, the Etruscans in the north, and the Greeks in the south. But these peoples, even if they became acclimatized, were foreigners; they came from beyond the sea. The Marches and Umbria were populated and civilized by native people, the Italic. On this route, we shall pass through the ruins of an ancient city, Corfinium.

In 90 BC, the people of this city rose against Rome and made it the capital of their state, giving it a name destined to have a very long life – Italia. That ancient Italia was overwhelmed and defeated. But the name remained, and long outlived Roman power, to spread to the whole of Italy.

The itinerary:

PESARO still has beautiful monuments dating from the time when it was a Signory, first of the Malatesta, and then of the Sforza and the Della Revere: the Ducal Palace (15th cent.) and the Costanza Fortress by Laurana. From here, passing the Romanesque Cathedral, we arrive at Palazzo Toschi-Mosca, with the essential Majolica Museum in Italy, and the rich Picture Gallery (magnificent Coronation of the Virgin by Giovanni Bellini, works by Michele di Malice, Beccafumi, etc.). From here, we can go on to Sant’Agostino with its magnificent Gothic portal of 1413.

About 2 km (1 1/4 mi) out of the city, on a height near the sea, is Villa Imperiale (15th-16th cent) of which Emperor Frederick III laid the foundation stone, a luxurious noble dwelling of the 15th-century, with noteworthy frescoes by Dossi, Bronzino, Perin del Vaga.

We can devote the afternoon to FANO.

FANO, a beautiful city, rich in monuments, about 12 km. (7 1/2) of coast road away, over the Canal Harbor. There is an excellent Arch of Augustus; next to it, the little church of San Michele with an elegant 16th-century portal and the Loggias of San Michele. In the Piazza rises the 13th century Palazzo delta Ragione, of Lombard form, flanked by a Tower and the Palazzo Malatestiano (elegant Gallery of Primitives). In the church of Santa Maria Nuova, there is a Madonna and Saints and an Annunciation by Perugino. Leaving Fano the next day we reach (25 km. – 15 3/4 mi.) FOSSOMBRONE, a pretty town in the Metauro Valley with a 16th century Palazzo Comunale and many others, all with rhomboid rustication. Five kilometers farther on, turn right before entering the Furlo Gorge, to follow the Metauro (15 km. – 9 1/2 mi.) to URBINO.

Urbino - Photo © brunoat
Urbino – Photo © brunoat

 URBINO is a parallelogram lying over its two hills; it keeps the form given it by its lord, Federico da Montefeltro. It was the birthplace of Bramante and Raphael. If he arrives from Faro, we advise the traveler to go in by the Via Nazionale, to get the southern aspect of the Ducal Palace, with its soaring turrets and stories of loggias.

And so to the Palace, built by Luciano Laurana (1466), one of the most extraordinary examples of early Renaissance architecture, with its splendid Main Courtyard, the staircase which Vasari described as the finest of his time, the magnificent rooms with carved ceilings and ornate mantelpieces.

On the first floor is the National Gallery of the Marches, an extremely rich collection, with two works by Piero della Francesca, Flagellation of Christ and a Madonna, Raphael’s , Dumb Girl, and paintings by Verrocchio, Gentile da Fabriano, Giovanni Bellini, Paolo Uccello, Giovanni Sanzio (Raphael’s father), Titian etc. Opposite the right-wing of the Palace, the church of San Domenico, with an exceptional portal.

Passing to Piazza della Repubblica and along Via Mazzini, one arrives at the Oratory of San Giovanni with excellent frescoes by the Salimbeni brothers. We now go back to the Via Flaminia along the same road (14 km – 8 /4 mi) and pass through the Furlo Gorge to Acqualagna and CAGLI. It’s a town of severe appearance with a 15th century Palazzo Comunale and the Gothic-Romanesque church of San Francesco (frescoes inside), to rise through exquisite scenery to Scheggia at 55 km (34 1/2 mi) from Urbino. Here turn to the right and take the road which after 13 km. (8 mi.) through bare, harsh mountain scenery, brings us into Umbria and to GUBBIO.

GUBBIO, an ancient city which a perfectly preserved medieval atmosphere. We climb the Via dei Consoli, entering through Porto Metauro between ancient house-fronts. We run past the austere Palazzo del Bargello to the impressive Piazza della Signoria, opening like a balcony supported on massive arches, over the lower city and the plain beyond. The piazza is dominated by the superb Palazzo dei Consoli (1332) opposite, which raises the Palazzo Camomile of the same period (Picture Gallery inside). Behind the palace rises Monte Ingino, towards which we climb up the steep Via Ducale to the Cathedral (13th cent.), with its austere interior supported on ten Gothic arches; with beautiful primitive paintings. Opposite to it is the Ducal Palace, by Laurana, with its beautiful courtyard. There is a magnificent view from up here.

Returning to Piazza della Signoria, we go down to the San Giovanni Battista district, with the church of San Giovanni, then on down Via Piccardi past sturdy medieval facades to the 14th-century church of San Domenico, not far from the Roman Amphitheatre of the Augustan age. Along other streets of the higher city (Via Savelli, with exquisite palaces), one can get to Santa Maria Nacre, with beautiful frescoes by Ottaviano Nelli. Then down to the tower of Porta Romana, beyond which stands Sant’Agostino, an impressive 13th-century building with beautiful primitive frescoes in the interior and out of Gribbin on to an excellent panoramic road through the hills leading to PERUGIA.

We spend the entire day with a visit to Perugia,

On the morning of the next day, we leave Perugia by Via Roma and after a drive of 15 miles come to ASSISI.

After the visit to Assisi, we leave, descending into the valley and passing by the broad church of S. Maria degli Angeli, and go toward Perugia, but without re-entering the city. When we come to Ponte San Giovanni (12 1/2 miles from Assisi), we take Highway No. 3 his to the right, up the valley of the Tiber, and after some 20 miles come to UMBERTIDE, with its Castle (14th century) and the beautiful octagonal church of S. Maria della Reggia (16th century). In the church of S. Croce (1651), we find a Deposition by Luca Signorelli.

Spello - Photo © ho visto nina volare
Spello – Photo © ho visto nina volare

Thirteen kilometers from Assisi (8 mi.) lies SPELLO, on the last spur of Monte Subiaso. We enter the town through the fine Roman Porta Consolare and climb up past ancient house-fronts to the Oratory of San Bernardino (Madonna by Pinturicchio) and Santa Maria Maggiore with its exquisite frescoes by Pinturicchio and paintings of his school.

Passing Sant’Andrea (13th cent.) with more paintings by Pinturicchio and the Palazzo Comunale, we climb to the Belvedere near the walls of the ancient fortress and the ruins of a Roman Arch. The view from here is superb, looking over the Umbrian hills to Perugia and Assisi.

Going back to the State Highway, another few miles brings us to FOLIGNO, which we enter by crossing the picturesque Canale dei Molini (Mill-race) and coming out into Piazza Centrale on one corner of this stands Palazzo Trinci, containing an exquisite chapel frescoed by Nelli, a Museum and an Art Gallery. The Palazzo Comunale has a Neo-Classical facade and a 15th-century tower. To be seen then the Palazzo Orfini of the 15 century and the graceful sidewall wail of the Romanesque Cathedral, with rose-windows, mothered windows and a beautiful 13th-century Portal.

After Foligno, we leave the State Highway for a side road leading to the enchanting town of MONTEFALCO.

MONTEFALCO, (12 km – 7 1/2 mi.). It is in a superb position, girt by massive battlemented walls. In its churches of Santa Chiara, Sant’Agostino, Madonna del Soccorso, San Fortunato, but especially of San Francesco, three generations of Umbrian painters in the 14th and 15th centuries left an unbelievable complex of frescoes, quite exceptional for a little place of only 7000 inhabitants. A call here is essential if only for the beautiful work of Benozzo Gozzoli. The road brings us back to the State Highway after winding for 23 km. (14 1/2 mi.) near TREVI perched on its hill. Two kilometers (1 1/4 mi.) farther on is the little Roman Temple beside the Fonti di Clitunno (springs) in a charming woodland setting. Another 16 km (10 mi) brings us to Spoleto. Here, we advise the visitor who is not in a hurry to go first to the cemetery to see the extremely rare Basilica of San Salvatore. It has an intact facade and apse of the 4th century and a severe Roman interior. Going back on to the Via Nursina and crossing the bridge, we now enter SPOLETO.

 SPOLETO through Porta Garibaldi. It was a proud Etruscan city, then Roman; it became the seat of a mighty Longobard Duchy in the early Middle Ages. In Piazza Garibaldi is the 12th-century church of San Gregorio Magno, and near it, a Roman bridge. We are going along Via Anfiteatro, skirting the ruins of the Roman Amphitheatre, which Totila transformed into a fortress in 545. We go up Via Cecili as far as Porto Fuga (12th century) near Palazzo Cecili (15th century) and on up to Piazza Torre dell’Olio, near the massive city wall with superimposed Etruscan, Roman, Longobard, medieval and Renaissance work. We continue to climb past ancient buildings, all vaults, and towers, to Piazza San Domenico, with its 14th-century church, in bands of white and red stone.

From here, it is only a few steps to the piazza in which Palazzo Collicola stands. In this area, there is the little Romanesque church of San Lorenzo. Here one takes Via delle Terme for the ruins of the Roman Theatre in Palazzo Ancaiani.

Starting from Piazza della Liberta, one can get to the small church of Sant’Ansano. Beside it stands the Arch of Drusus (23 AD) leading into Piazza del Mercato, the center of the medieval city. Turning left off this, we enter Piazza della Genga with Palazzo della Genga and the Fontana Grande, or Great Fountain. Piazza Municipio, reached along Via dei Duchy, contains the 13th-century Municipal Hall m, which there is an Art Gallery. We go down the broad steps leading to the superb Cathedral passing from the panoramic Piazza Campello and Via Saffi into Via dell’Arringo. Inside it, there is a sculpture by Bernini, frescoes by Lippo Lippi, and the latter’s tomb.

From Spoleto to TERNI is 26 km. of mountain road (16 3/4 mi.).

TERNI. As one enters, it is best to make for Piazza Tacito and then along Via Fratti to the 13th-century church of San Francesco, inside which there are 14th-century frescoes inspired by Dante’s Divine Comedy. Going along Via Nobili and Via Fratini and then Via Cavour brings us to the Cathedral, with a 17th-century facade ascribed to Bernini, whose loggia opens into the Romanesque Portal.

There is a beautiful 10th-century crypt. Opposite the Cathedral, there is the fine Palazzo Bianchini-Riccardi by Antonio da Sangallo the Younger and, to the right, the rums of the Roman Amphitheatre. Via Vescovado, Via Roma and then Via del Popolo take us to the city’s most excellent church, San Salvatore, whose 12th century nave was built onto an ancient Temple of the Sun Passing the majestic Palazzo Spada brings us to Piazza del Popolo and so we leave Term by Ponte Garibaldi along a beautiful road which takes us past the Marmore Cascades (8 km. – 5 mi.) and Lake Piediluco and minor lakes to RIETI.

RIETI Immediately on entering the town after Piazza Marconi is San Domenico (13th century) on the right. From here we go to Piazza Battisti with the Cathedral. It has Romanesque with a Renaissance facade. It also has a fine campanile, and then the Bishop’s Palace. Close at hand, the picturesque Vescovado Vaults (1288). Via Roma has excellent Gothic. It leads to San Pietro Apostolo with a 13th-century Romanesque portal. Close by is the late Renaissance Palazzo Vecchiarelli Ponte Romano crosses the River Velino, on to which picturesque houses front. To the left here stands San Francesco (1285) with a Gothic Altar and frescoes. In the Baroque Palazzo del Municipio, the Civic Museum is housed, with some good works such as paintings by Antoniazzo Romano and his pupils, Luca di Tome, archaeological exhibits, and an elegant 15th-century German Pieta. Leaving the town by Porta d’Arci, note the massive Walls (13th century) which still surround the town.

One leaves Rieti by State Highway No. 4, commanded to the left by Monte Terminillo. After Cittaducale, perched high on a hill, one posses wooded valleys to arrive at ANTRODOCO (25 km. – 16 mi. from Rieti). It is an ancient town at the foot of Monte Giano. Here we leave the River Velino and go up a majestic valley through road tunnels and narrow gorges to arrive at Sella di Caron. Here we are at 3212 ft, and the setting is Alpine. From here, we go down into the bowl of the hills in which L’AOUILA lies.

Downtown L'Aquila
Downtown L’Aquila before the earthquake – Photo © sangiopanza2000

 L’AQUILA. Its monuments are scattered at random around the outskirts. Beginning from the modern Piazza del Duomo, go up to Santa Maria di Paganica, a beautiful Romanesque church of 1308, surrounded by noteworthy 115th-century palaces. From here, we can go on to the superb Castle that was built in 1535 by the Spanish Viceroy. He had been frightened by a revolt of the Aquilans in 1529. Magnificent view over the city and the mountains, among which the Gran Sasso d’Italia stands out.

From the Castle, down to San Bernardino, a beautiful 15th-century Basilica built over the tomb of the Sienese saint who died here in 1444: inside, carved ceilings, beautiful Renaissance sculpture.

Going down the majestic monumental staircase in front of the church into the picturesque Via Fortebraccio and turning to the right before reaching Porta di Bazzano, we enter the old quarter, where the severe Romanesque facade of Santa Giusta rises.

Then we go back to Porta di Bazzano, then through it and climb up to Santa Maria di Collemaggio, one of the most beautiful churches in Italy. Its majestic facade is relieved by three portals, three rose-windows, and inlaid work of tiny red and white stones (13th century). Going back to Porta Bazzano, go towards Corso Federico II and beyond it to San Marco, with an elegant Romanesque portal. Via Arcivescovado has several exquisite palaces. In Via San Marciano, there is the House of Nardis, with Gothic arches and the church of San Marciano. From here, one may proceed to Santa Maria di Roio (15th cent.) surrounded by noteworthy palaces. Via Fontesecca takes us down to the famous Fountain of the 99 Jets, near which stands the splendid Romanesque church of San Vito. Returning to the city, one may visit San Domenico, San Pietro in Coppito, and the 14th century San Silvestro.

In the Castle, there is a famous National Museum of the Abruzzo (sculpture, paintings and objets d’art). The seventh day of the journey begins with the ascent to Assergi (21 km. – 13 mi.)with a beautiful Romanesque church of 1150, lower station of the bold cableway of 3400 meters to Campo Imperatore (2114 meters – 6934 ft.). All around, the peaks of the Gran Sasso and a vast panorama of the Abruzzo mountains and plains. On the eighth day, we leave L’Aquila by Porta Napoli. After 8 km. (5 mi.), we come to Bazzano, with its beautiful rustic Romanesque church of Santa Giusta. From here, we climb to Poggio Picenze, leaving the Barisciano turning. It would be worth the trouble, however, to make a small deviation (5 km. – 3 mi.) for BOMINACO for its splendid Romanesque churches of San Pellegrino and Santa Maria. Back on the State highway, take the straight over the Navelli plateau-beautiful country-and then down into the River Pescara valley to POPOLI at the foot of the mountains (50 km. – 28 1/4 mi.) from L’Aquila. Here there is the beautiful 15th-century church of San Francisco and the Gothic Ducat Tavern.

From Popoli, passing the CORFINIO turning after 5 km (3 mi.), we reach SULMONA, an ancient city with elegant buildings. The 13th-century Cathedral is on the left as you enter. Palazzo dell’Annunziata, the most exceptional civic building in the Abruzzi, a synthesis of styles trouble, however, to make a small deviation (5 km. – 3 mi.) for BOMINACO for its splendid Romanesque churches of San Pellegrino and Santa Maria. Back on the State Highway, take the straight over the Navelli plateau-beautiful country-and then down into the River Pescara valley to POPOLI at the foot of the mountains (50 km. – 28 3/4 mi.) from L’Aquila. Here there is the exquisite 15th-century church of San Francesco and the Gothic Ducal Tavern.

From Popoli, we suggest making a deviation of 14 km. (8 3/4 mi.) to TORRE DE’ PASSERI to see the architectural masterpiece of the Abruzzi, the Romanesque Abbey of San Clemente a Casauria, a splendid monumental complex built between the 9th and the 12th centuries; it is to be seen both for its architectural splendor and its carvings.

Deer
Deer – Photo © www.aquilatv.it

From Popoli, passing the CORFINIO turning after 5 km (3 mi.), we reach SULMONA, an ancient city with elegant buildings. The 13th-century Cathedral is on the left as you enter. Palazzo dell’Annunziata, is the most elegant civic building in the Abruzzi, a synthesis of styles running from Gothic to Baroque. In the interior, there is the Civic Museum with a statue of Ovid, who was born here: the Romanesque church of San Francesco alla Scarpa. In the airy Piazza del Mercato, we see the arches of a 14th-century aqueduct that feeds the 16th-century fountain, Fontana del Vecchio, at the foot of the mountain stands San Filippo. Leaving the XIV century rustic Porta Napoli, we climb to century RIVISONDOLI (1210 m. – 3969 ft.) a mountain resort, where we shall spend the night, or in nearby ROCCARASO.

The return from Roccaraso to Pesaro is covered in this itinerary
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A few items from Abruzzo

La Cucina: The Regional Cooking of Italy
Fifty years ago, a group of Italian scholars gathered to discuss a problem: how to preserve traditional Italian cooking. They formed the Italian Academy of Cuisine to document classic recipes from every region. The academy’s more than seven thousand associates spread out to villages everywhere, interviewing grandmothers and farmers at their stoves, transcribing their recipes—many of which had never been documented before. This is the culmination of that research, an astounding feat—2,000 recipes that represent the patrimony of Italian country cooking. Each recipe is labeled with its region of origin, and it’s not just the ingredients but also the techniques that change with the geography. Sprinkled throughout are historical recipes that provide fascinating views into the folk culture of the past. There are no fancy flourishes here, and no shortcuts; this is true salt-of-the-earth cooking. The book is an excellent everyday source for easily achievable recipes, with such simple dishes as White Bean and Escarole Soup, Polenta with Tomato Sauce, and Chicken with Lemon and Capers. For ease of use there are four different indexes. La Cucina is an essential reference for every cook’s library.

Grazing In Abruzzo
Bruce Franchini (Director), Lidia Bastianich (Actor)
Lidia loves the region of Abruzzo! She describes the people there as welcoming, giving and jovial, and the hearty food of the region has left her with such fond memories. In the Abruzzese kitchens, Farro, a kind of wheat berry, is cooked as a whole grain and is manufactured in many shapes-both by small artisanal pasta makers and larger pasta companies. She makes this pasta with arugula and ricotta. Following her main course of Lamb with Olives, she creates the deliciously fun Scrippelle-which look like fettuccine-and tosses them in a hot caramel, citrus and apricot sauce for dessert.

Abruzzo. History and art guide
by Latini M. L. (Author)
Although it is a bit too synthetic, to the detriment of the overall readability of the text, the work provides an exhaustive description of the artistic heritage of Abruzzo, inserting points for observation not always recognized. Recommended.

Abruzzo 1st Edition
by Michael Kenna
Abruzzo, located in southern Italy, is known as the green region of Europe because of the system of parks and nature reserves covering more than one-third of its territory. In Abruzzo, Michael Kenna found a cultural identity that elsewhere, for the most part, has been lost to globalization and instant communication. Kenna photographed medieval ruins, ancient villages and a countryside rich in traditional cultivation. As curator Vincenzo de Pompeis writes in the book s introduction, 'Abruzzo's heritage, together with its impressive natural scenery, brings to mind romantic connotations that have historically attracted many international landscape artists, particularly in the 19th century. Michael Kenna fits perfectly into this rich historical vein of celebrated landscape artists who have worked in Abruzzo. Kenna's work often evokes the influences of Romanticism. In his photographs of historic rural landscapes, for example, there is an air of melancholy, which accompanies memories from the past. His images of ruins stir up feelings of passing time, of the constantly evolving ties between history and nature.' This gorgeous new monograph by renowned landscape photographer Michael Kenna is published to coincide with a major museum exhibition in Loreto Aprutino, Italy. Richly printed in duotone on matt art paper, and presented in an olive-green cloth slipcase with black debossed text on one side and a tipped-in image on the other, Abruzzo presents 65 images from the series, published here for the first time.

Michelin Map Italy: Abruzzo, Molise 361 (Maps/Local (Michelin))
Michelin created its first travel guide over 100 years ago to promote road travel and inspire driving confidence. Today, Michelin Travel & Lifestyle offers travelers an extensive range of travel guides, maps and online travel resources. These products deliver the same Michelin promise of quality and consistency consumers expect from one of the world's most trusted brands.
Publisher of travel guides, maps and atlases, Michelin Travel & Lifestyle offers a complete travel portfolio. Where to go, how to get there, where to eat & stay, and what to see & do ... all in one collection with extensive international & domestic coverage, especially for Europe. Our series includes Michelin (Red) Guides, Green Guides, Must Sees and Michelin maps and atlases.

Canti Della Terra D'Abruzzo
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Buy MP3: all 51 at the same time, or each one individually.

Italian Folk Songs from Abruzzo 1927-1930
LA COPPIA SCIASCIA (Artist)
CD and MP3 reissue of the freat italian folk duo. Comes with rich notes and photos of the couple as well. Pasquale and Clara Sciascia immigrated to the U. S. from the Abruzzo region of Italy, settling in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania. From 1927 to 1933 they recorded 44 songs fro the Victor, Columbia and Brunswick record companies. The Sciascias were the first to record a number of Italian and Abruzzese folk songs, 14 of which are reissued here for the first time in 90 years. The songs feature wonderful duet singing and exquisite string band accompaniment. Also included are notes on the couple and their music, photos, and the transcribed and translated lyrics. Includes 20 page booklet.