Cities and Courts in the Po Valley Part 1: From Milan to Venice

This is an excerpt from the book “Milan to Venice

The two following itineraries are, in a certain sense, complementary.

Though each has a distinct character of its own, the two of them have many features in common and both converge upon a city which, apart from evolving an extremely original way of life and a unique artistic style of its own, exerted an influence far beyond that of the usual medieval or Renaissance city-state: Venice.

This magical city quite rightly appears twice in our travels: the first time, in an excursion which, dedicated as it is to the Renaissance in the Po Valley, includes the capitals of the ancient principalities, those court centers whose magnificence greatly contributed to the enrichment of European culture: Milan of the Visconti and the Sforzas, Mantua of the Gonzagas, Verona of the Scaligers, Ferrara and Modena of the Earnest; and tiny Sabbioneta, whose present countrified aspect still offers evidence of the brave and passionate dream of its one great prince, Vespasiano Gonzaga.

Among these cities, which might rightly include Bergamo, Brescia, Vicenza and Bologna which, though not capitals, nevertheless carried the figurative arts and the art of living to the highest level of expression, Venice occupies a unique position.

The itinerary also passes near two lakes: Iseo Lake and Garda Lake, on their own worth a visit.

Milano Castello Sforzesco

The itinerary:

Milano: You should reserve at least two days to visit Milan, very interesting is the visit on foot to the center of Milan.

Setting off from Milan down the Autostrada on the morning of the third day of our trip, we reach, after some 30 miles, the city of Bergamo, well worth one day visit.

We leave Bergamo in the direction of the Iseo Lake, going through Seriate, an old village on the banks of the River Serio, and then Trescore, with important frescoes by Lotto in the Oratory of Villa Guardi. After passing the romantic Lake Eudine, we reach (25 miles) the town of Lovere at the far end of the Lake of Iseo and start off down the eastern shore. Near Pisogne, we find the Sanctuary of S. Maria della Ncve with frescoes by Romanino (1540); the road descends amidst magnificent scenery towards the Punta alle Croci Bergamasche and runs along beside the lake: from Sulzano you can take a boat to the Island of Mont’Isola (the largest in any of the Italian lakes) which fills the middle of the lake with its conical mass.

At Iseo (13 miles from Pisogne), we take the road which, some 11 miles later, brings us to Brescia, where we can spend one day visit.

We leave Brescia by taking Viale Venezia in the direction of Lake Garda, the largest of the Italian lakes. After 15 miles, we reach Desenzano and by keeping to the shore of the lake, end up at the gentle peninsula on which stands the many-towered town of Sirmione, with its handsome Scaliger Castle, as welt as several important Roman ruins. At SIRMIONE, we will spend the night, we have the option of spending one additional day without car on the boat on the Lake Garda, and then leaving the next morning, by way of Peschiera, for MANTUA.

Mantegna Duchi

One day should be reserved to visit the artistic city of Mantova.

end of the excerpt of the book “Milan to Venice

Recommended itineraries in Italy
Itinerary partly courtesy of ENIT

William Dellorusso
Lombardia in Cucina: The Flavours of Lombardy

Milan-style risotto, pizzoccheri Valtellinesi, and pumpkin tortelli to start; casoeula, Milan-style cutlets, frogs stewed in tomato to follow, and to send, a slice of sbrisolona cake or panettone.
Lombardy surprises with the richness of its culinary traditions and natural ingredients, which modernity has barely affected.
"Milano in Cucina" captures this kaleidoscope of flavours, with contributions from some of the most celebrated chefs on the culinary scene, who pay homage to their territory, and whose skill is able to present a modern vision in keeping with the region's progressive spirit.

The Italian Academy of Cuisine
La Cucina: The Regional Cooking of Italy

Fifty years ago, a group of Italian scholars gathered to discuss a problem: how to preserve traditional Italian cooking. They formed the Italian Academy of Cuisine to document classic recipes from every region. The academy’s more than seven thousand associates spread out to villages everywhere, interviewing grandmothers and farmers at their stoves, transcribing their recipes—many of which had never been documented before. This is the culmination of that research, an astounding feat—2,000 recipes that represent the patrimony of Italian country cooking. Each recipe is labeled with its region of origin, and it’s not just the ingredients but also the techniques that change with the geography. Sprinkled throughout are historical recipes that provide fascinating views into the folk culture of the past. There are no fancy flourishes here, and no shortcuts; this is true salt-of-the-earth cooking. The book is an excellent everyday source for easily achievable recipes, with such simple dishes as White Bean and Escarole Soup, Polenta with Tomato Sauce, and Chicken with Lemon and Capers. For ease of use there are four different indexes. La Cucina is an essential reference for every cook’s library.

Milano in Cucina: The Flavours of Milan
The famous Risotto Alla Milanese gets its golden hue from the precious spice saffron. Legend has it that the dish came about when a Milanese painter decided to gild the risotto served at his wedding banquet with a harmless gold-colored dye. In Milan, they traditionally serve Risotto Alla Milanese with ossobuco (braised veal shank).
Traditionally made with raisins and candied citron, or with a creamy cream filling, the light, fluffy brioche-like bread called panettone may be tall or short, covered with chocolate or flavored with various liquors, but it’s always a symbol of the Christmas season.
With its hallmark domed shape, panettone graced Christmas tables in Milan since at least the 15th-century. Common knowledge claims its invention is from Milan. It is the most famous Christmas Lombardia food.

The Pax side of the Moon featuring Cesareo
Lombardia (Dicon tutti che sei mia) Quarantine Version - feat. Cesareo (Quarantine Version)

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