Recommended by Slow Food: Restaurant
Via Fratelli Bandiera 9
Closed Tuesday and Wednesday
Open: dinner only
Prices: 26-28 euro, wine excluded
All credit cards, Bancomat
The interior of this rustic restaurant boasts wide arches set on columns, a wood-burning grill and oven, and a lower dining area in what was once the old wine cellar, with stone walls, a wooden-beamed ceiling and an open fire which is lit almost year round. Run by Oliviero and Eugenia Gabossi and their daughter, they’ve managed to create a homely and inviting ambience in an already attractive setting.
To whet your appetite you’ll be served a little slice of pizza to niblle on while trying to decide from the large menu. The antipasti include a good selection of cured meats accompanied by polenta, salads and grilled vegetables. The menu always includes casoncelll camuni, or choose from potato gnocchetti with local scorzone truffles, pasta alia pastora, tripe and pasta and beans.
Then it’s on to duck with Savoy cabbage, baby wild boar (reared by Oliviero’s father) roasted in the wood fired oven and served with deeply savory potatoes with rosemary or chargrilled Brescia meats – the beef is excellent.
To finish off, a selection of Alpine cheeses and fresh caprini accompanied by polenta taragna and sweet-and-sour pickled vegetables, served with passito muffato wine. Homemade fruit tarts and seasonal fruit round off the meal.
The cellar offers around 40 prized regional wines, particularly from Franciacorta and Garda and the increasingly popular wines of the Valcamonica area (Merlot, Baldami etc.). There’s also a wide range of spirits, including a good genepy.
Courtesy in part of Osterie e locande d’Italia Slow food editore
Lombardia in Cucina: The Flavours of Lombardy
Milan-style risotto, pizzoccheri Valtellinesi, and pumpkin tortelli to start; casoeula, Milan-style cutlets, frogs stewed in tomato to follow, and to send, a slice of sbrisolona cake or panettone.
Lombardy surprises with the richness of its culinary traditions and natural ingredients, which modernity has barely affected.
"Milano in Cucina" captures this kaleidoscope of flavours, with contributions from some of the most celebrated chefs on the culinary scene, who pay homage to their territory, and whose skill is able to present a modern vision in keeping with the region's progressive spirit.
The Italian Academy of Cuisine
La Cucina: The Regional Cooking of Italy
Fifty years ago, a group of Italian scholars gathered to discuss a problem: how to preserve traditional Italian cooking. They formed the Italian Academy of Cuisine to document classic recipes from every region. The academy’s more than seven thousand associates spread out to villages everywhere, interviewing grandmothers and farmers at their stoves, transcribing their recipes—many of which had never been documented before. This is the culmination of that research, an astounding feat—2,000 recipes that represent the patrimony of Italian country cooking. Each recipe is labeled with its region of origin, and it’s not just the ingredients but also the techniques that change with the geography. Sprinkled throughout are historical recipes that provide fascinating views into the folk culture of the past. There are no fancy flourishes here, and no shortcuts; this is true salt-of-the-earth cooking. The book is an excellent everyday source for easily achievable recipes, with such simple dishes as White Bean and Escarole Soup, Polenta with Tomato Sauce, and Chicken with Lemon and Capers. For ease of use there are four different indexes. La Cucina is an essential reference for every cook’s library.
Milano in Cucina: The Flavours of Milan
The famous Risotto Alla Milanese gets its golden hue from the precious spice saffron. Legend has it that the dish came about when a Milanese painter decided to gild the risotto served at his wedding banquet with a harmless gold-colored dye. In Milan, they traditionally serve Risotto Alla Milanese with ossobuco (braised veal shank).
Traditionally made with raisins and candied citron, or with a creamy cream filling, the light, fluffy brioche-like bread called panettone may be tall or short, covered with chocolate or flavored with various liquors, but it’s always a symbol of the Christmas season.
With its hallmark domed shape, panettone graced Christmas tables in Milan since at least the 15th-century. Common knowledge claims its invention is from Milan. It is the most famous Christmas Lombardia food.
The Pax side of the Moon featuring Cesareo
Lombardia (Dicon tutti che sei mia) Quarantine Version - feat. Cesareo (Quarantine Version)