Today we start from Piazza Scala, easily reached with the underground lines MM1 and MM3 from Piazza Duomo through the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele, or directly with several tram lines, the lines 1 and 2 stop right in the piazza.
From Piazza della Scala we take via Giuseppe Verdi, on the right of the Theater, and we make our way to the XVIII century Palazzo Clerici to see the great fresco which Gian Battista Tiepolo palm Led in 1740, entitled, The Course of the Sun, Via Verdi becomes Via Brera, and we come to the Brera, a distinguished building designed by Richini with an austere courtyard, in the center of which stands Canoed’s Statue of Napoleon (1809), inspired by classical models. This great gallery contains several masterpieces of Italian art from the XIV to the XX century such as: Raphael’s “Marriage of the Virgin”; Giovanni Bellini’s “Pieta’”; Piero della Francesca’s “Urbino Altarpiece”; Andrea Mantegna’s “The Dead Christ”; Caravaggio’s “Supper at Emmaus”; and Bramante’s “Christ at the Column”. There are also six new halls dedicated to Italian paintings between XIII and XVI century; and a collection of metaphysical paintings, in addition to the Maria and Emilio Jesi collection, which has been donated to the gallery.
Brera is an extremely important picture gallery, as is the astonishing collection of paintings left to the city in 1571 by Gian Giacomo Poldi Pezzoli, which can be reached from the Brera by taking Via Borgonuovo and Via Manzoni. A visit to the two galleries will take up most of the morning.
For lunch go somewhere close by – we recommend “Latteria San Marco” in Via San Marco, 24, a 7 minutes walk from the end of via Brera, recommended also by Slow Food, a very small place with genuine Milanese cuisine. The place is tiny and doesn’t take reservations, so if you want to get one of the 8 very popular tables, arrive when it opens or wait until when a few tables will free up as the early-lunching tourist clientele clears out and the locals take over. After lunch we will continue our tour in the afternoon by wandering through the enchanting streets of romantic Milano, dear to Stendhal.
Choose the area delimited by Via Montenapoleone, the modern center of fashionable Milano, Via Sant’Andrea, Via Manzoni and Via delta Spiga. This is the area where you can do the most expensive shopping in Milano, be prepared to spend as much as $6,000 for a skirt, if you want, and can afford it! Fortunately you don’t have to buy anything, you can get by with some inexpensive window-shopping. Also go along Via Borgospesso, Via Santo Spirito and Via del Gesu, where you will be struck by the theatrical perspectives of the XVI century Palazzo Bagatti Valsecchi.
Enter the courtyards, where to your astonishment you will discover, among the splashing fountains, the green lawns and the elegant arcades, an atmosphere of quiet you would have never expected to find in the heart of the city.
You can then go on to the Public Gardens, or the Royal Villa. This villa is an interesting example of Italian Neo-Classicism: it was designed by Leopoldo Pollack in 1790 for Count Ludovico Barbiano di Belgiojoso, and it was used as a residence by Napoleon before becoming royal property. To the right of the facade facing the street, there is the Padiglione d’Arte Contemporanea (PAC, contemporary art gallery) designed in 1948-54 by Ignazio Gardella. This museum is recommended, you should be sure not to miss it.
Where to stay in Milan
There are hotels, apartments, B&Bs and guesthouses available, check it out and make a reservation here.
Lombardia in Cucina: The Flavours of Lombardy
Milan-style risotto, pizzoccheri Valtellinesi, and pumpkin tortelli to start; casoeula, Milan-style cutlets, frogs stewed in tomato to follow, and to send, a slice of sbrisolona cake or panettone.
Lombardy surprises with the richness of its culinary traditions and natural ingredients, which modernity has barely affected.
"Milano in Cucina" captures this kaleidoscope of flavours, with contributions from some of the most celebrated chefs on the culinary scene, who pay homage to their territory, and whose skill is able to present a modern vision in keeping with the region's progressive spirit.
The Italian Academy of Cuisine
La Cucina: The Regional Cooking of Italy
Fifty years ago, a group of Italian scholars gathered to discuss a problem: how to preserve traditional Italian cooking. They formed the Italian Academy of Cuisine to document classic recipes from every region. The academy’s more than seven thousand associates spread out to villages everywhere, interviewing grandmothers and farmers at their stoves, transcribing their recipes—many of which had never been documented before. This is the culmination of that research, an astounding feat—2,000 recipes that represent the patrimony of Italian country cooking. Each recipe is labeled with its region of origin, and it’s not just the ingredients but also the techniques that change with the geography. Sprinkled throughout are historical recipes that provide fascinating views into the folk culture of the past. There are no fancy flourishes here, and no shortcuts; this is true salt-of-the-earth cooking. The book is an excellent everyday source for easily achievable recipes, with such simple dishes as White Bean and Escarole Soup, Polenta with Tomato Sauce, and Chicken with Lemon and Capers. For ease of use there are four different indexes. La Cucina is an essential reference for every cook’s library.
Milano in Cucina: The Flavours of Milan
The famous Risotto Alla Milanese gets its golden hue from the precious spice saffron. Legend has it that the dish came about when a Milanese painter decided to gild the risotto served at his wedding banquet with a harmless gold-colored dye. In Milan, they traditionally serve Risotto Alla Milanese with ossobuco (braised veal shank).
Traditionally made with raisins and candied citron, or with a creamy cream filling, the light, fluffy brioche-like bread called panettone may be tall or short, covered with chocolate or flavored with various liquors, but it’s always a symbol of the Christmas season.
With its hallmark domed shape, panettone graced Christmas tables in Milan since at least the 15th-century. Common knowledge claims its invention is from Milan. It is the most famous Christmas Lombardia food.
The Pax side of the Moon featuring Cesareo
Lombardia (Dicon tutti che sei mia) Quarantine Version - feat. Cesareo (Quarantine Version)